Lalibela, Ethiopia

The monolithic stone churches of Lalibela are the highlight of any visit to Ethiopia. I'd wanted to see them since about 1982, and I wasn't disappointed in the least. Guide Molla Kassaw was knowledgeable and considerate, indulging my fascination with these places and never making me feel rushed. A lot of people go to Lalibela for the holidays, whether Orthodox Christmas or Easter, but I preferred the off-season, with fewer tourists and a greater sense of solitude and wonder in which to experience these magnificent buildings.

Debre Sina Maryam, Gorgora, Ethiopia

A must-see in Gorgora: the monastery of Debre Sina Maryam, which dates from perhaps the 14th century and is noteworthy for its iconography. A pleasant walk from Tim & Kim's, and friendly deacons to show you around.